Dear Gentleman, summer is a tough time in classic menswear. Instead of using the summer heat as an excuse to relax your dress code – see it as an opportunity to incorporate colour, new fabrics and styles into your wardrobe. Let me guide you how to remain cool while wearing a suit.

Shirt

To prefer

Fabric: Wear materials that allow your skin to breath and have lightweight as well (cotton, linen, chambray, cotton-poplin)

Colour: Any pastel colour (white, pink, blue, orange, beige…)

Other rules:

Shirt must be embroidered in the trousers.
You can wear the plain shirt, striped one or with some another pattern that fits youroutfit.
If you are in formal situation, you can’t unbutton the upper one. This is for business casual, and only if you don’t have a tie.
You may roll up your long sleeves elegantly if you want to feel fresh.

To avoid

Short sleeves shirts. They are for children only, or for very casual outfit. Not formal or even business casual.
Having a tie AND the upper button open. This is not proper.


The first button can not be open when you are wearing a tie

Tie

To prefer

Fabric: Silk, cashmere, cotton, linen

Colour: Any pastel colour

Pattern: Stripes, dots or any elegant one

Other rules:
When your tie is properly tied, the tip should end just above your belt buckle at maximum. Anything longer should be retied.
Match your tie’s colour with accessories.

To avoid

Do not wear poorly tied or wrinkled tie.
Do not wear any funny pattern, such as cartoons

Jacket

To prefer

Fabric: Wear materials that allow your skin to breath and have lightweight as well (cotton, linen, seersucker, cotton-piqué, fresco, chambray)

Colour: Light gray, baby blue, navy blue, khaki, berry, etc…

Other rules:

For single-breasted suits, if you are standing the last button should be unbuttoned no matter how many buttons are there. Once you sit you should unbutton the remaining ones/one.
Pair the blazer with trousers.

To avoid

Dark colour jacket (black, dark blue) with winter fabric shouldn’t be worn in summer.

Trousers

To prefer

Fabric: Wear materials that allow your skin to breath and have light weight as well (cotton, linen, seersucker, cotton-piqué, fresco, chambray)

Colour: Light gray, baby blue, navy blue, khaki, berry, etc…

Other rules:

Trousers should only break once on the shoes if you are wearing full-length trousers and should crease once on your feet, not having too many pleats.
If you are wearing cropped ones then they are cut to hit just above the ankle.


Only break once on the shoes

To avoid

Please carefully choose the length that fits you, do not fold your trousers as a solution.
Dark coloured trousers (black, dark blue) with winter fabric shouldn’t be worn in summer.


Do not fold your trousers

NB: For people who have a working uniform, rules about the colour are not applicable.

Belt

To prefer

Material: Leather (full grain, braided, exotic leather (crocodile, lizard, ostrich))

Colour: Black, brown, khaki, beige, white

Other rules:

Your belt should be the same colour with your shoes.
For some business casual occasions, braided or woven belts are a great choice for summer.

To avoid

Don’t wear an eye-catching statement belt if you’re not confident about drawing attention to your waist.
Don’t use oversized buckle, it should be small, plain and polished.

Socks

To prefer

Fabric: Merino wool, bamboo, cotton, modal

Colour: Pastel colours, light gray, baby blue, navy blue, khaki, berry, etc…

Other rules:

When you are wearing socks, they should match with your accessory or with colour of your trousers.
If you wear long trousers – socks should be long enough so when you are seated, we can’t see your skin.
If you wear cropped trousers – socks shouldn’t be worn or you can use invisible socks. They are short, thin cotton socks with a low profile that you can’t see outside the shoe.

To avoid

Thick socks are reserved for winter.
Pure white socks are ONLY for sports, do not wear them with your suit.
Do not wear any funny pattern in professional occasions.

Shoes

To prefer

Fabric: Leather (perforated, woven leather shoes)

Colour: Black, brown, grey, olive green, navy blue, beige

Other rules:

Our pair of shoes should be comfortable enough so we can make pleasant movements.
As I already said, match your shoes with the belt.

To avoid

We should never wear open shoes no matter how nice it is to have them during a hot day.
Plastic shoes are also not suitable.
Sports shoes are ONLY for sport, don’t combine them with your suit.

Do you have any other advice how to remain professional and cool in summer? Please, share with us!

Follow us for more etiquette articles and class information.