Dear gentlemen who strive to be elegant; for you, the folding of your pocket square into the jacket of your suit is a crucial skill. Depending on how you fold it, the impression you make can vary from formal to sophisticated, romantic, or even dandy. To help you get it right, we have prepared the following tutorial covering the different possibilities at your disposal. Today, we will review the 5 most important folding styles you must know, and in the forthcoming weeks, we will see 5 more sophisticated techniques. Shall we begin?
Why do we wear it?
The pocket square, or handkerchief, was first used in ancient Egypt and Greece in the form of linen cloth. In the 13th century France, noblemen were using perfumed pocket squares to cover their nose against the foul smells from the streets. Later, in the 18th century in Western Europe, it was common for men to carry a square with them at all times in case they needed to blow their nose. It only became a decorative accessory in the 20th century.
The line
It is a simple, crisp sliver peeking out from the breast pocket. For this fold, the pocket square does not need to be white but looks best with solid colors that contrast strongly with your suit jacket. It works better with a square in cotton, but you will still create a nice effect with silk.
When to wear it: For business and formal occasions
How to do it:
Start with the pocket square laying flat.
Fold one side over lengthwise about 1/3 of the width of the square.
Fold the other side over, making the resulting fold the width of your breast pocket.
Fold the two ends over.
Fold the entire length in half. Adjust to the depth of your breast pocket.
The peak
Simple and elegant, you can choose a plain or patterned square, in cotton or silk.
When to wear it: here again, for formal or business occasions.
How to do it:
Fold your pocket square in 4, in order to get a diamond shape.
Fold the left peak towards the middle, and do the same with the right one.
Fold the lower part towards the centre of the folding.
Adjust it with the size of you pocket and how high you want your peak to be.
The double peak
Slightly more original than the single peak, this folding can be done with a plain colored square or a patterned one and will look particularly sophisticated if your pocket square has a remarkable border.
When to wear it: for the formal occasion that allows a soft sophistication.
How to do it:
Fold your pocket square in 4, in order to get a diamond shape.
Fold up the lower part of the diamond towards the top, but not fully aligned with the top peak, rather a little to one side.
Fold the left peak towards the middle, and do the same with the right one.
Adjust it according to the size of you pocket and how high you want your peak to be.
The puffing
Easy to achieve, it creates a wealth of visual appeal, depth, and subtlety. Don’t be afraid to tinker with it once you have it in your pocket. This folding can only be done with pocket squares made from silk.
When to wear it: it will look great on every occasion.
How to do it:
With the pocket square laying flat, pinch the centre.
Pick it up from the center.
Form a ring around the pocket square with the thumb and index finger of your other hand and slide it down almost to the bottom.
Fold the pinched part down, in order to create pleats, ideally 3 of them. Place it in your jacket with the folded part facing upwards.
The flower (reverse puffing)
It is exactly the same process as the puff, but we will use the opposite part of the square. Avoid making this one look too perfect. Part of the allure of this fold is that it’s never quite the same twice—it’s the subtle variations that add depth and visual interest.
When to wear it: very eye-catching, wear it at social rather than professional occasions.
How to do it:
With the pocket square laying flat, pinch the centre.
Pick it up from the centre.
Form a ring around the pocket square with the thumb and index finger of your other hand and slide it down almost to the bottom.
Place it in your jacket and make sure the 4 edges are visible.
If your pocket square has a tag on it, you might want to carefully remove it as you definitely don’t want it showing on one of your points. In a forthcoming article we will see 5 advanced types of folding; in the meanwhile, I wish you great success at your social events!
